By Claire Matheson

Sometimes it’s hard to follow a motto. Not so at Central 214, a classy new restaurant located in the new Hotel Palomar in Dallas’ upscale Park Cities neighborhood. Their motto: Eat. Drink. Get Centered. Definitely words we can all live by.

Central 214’s name refers to its location off Central Expressway, a main thoroughfare in Dallas, and 214, Dallas’ primary area code. The eye-catching restaurant is the work of Paul Draper, a renowned Dallas designer. The 116-seat dining room is spacious and airy with a distinctly modern feel. Maple and other natural woods abound. Splashes of reds and deep oranges bring the room to life without detracting from the handsome architectural details. An open kitchen featuring plenty of stainless steel, polished granite and bright light lets diners see the chefs at work.

The sleek bar area at the front of the restaurant is spacious and inviting. Its low, plush couches are perfect for lounging. In the main dining room there are two bar-height communal tables that offer an unobstructed view of the kitchen. For maximum privacy, sit at one of the banquettes lining the back wall. On pleasant days the place to sit is on the outside patio where tables overlook a tranquil water fountain and lush garden and beyond to the hotel’s infinity pool.

In charge of the kitchen is chef Tom Fleming. Fleming has achieved national recognition and numerous awards for his culinary accomplishments. Featured in Bon Appétit, Southern Living, Gourmet, Esquire and USA Today, his Chicago restaurant, Brasserie Jo, was awarded the coveted “Best New Restaurant” by the James Beard Foundation. Since moving to Texas in 1997, Fleming has served as executive chef at successful restaurants, including Riviera and Pappas Bros. Steakhouse.

The food at Central 214 is classic American with a few surprises. In order to serve the freshest ingredients available, Central 214’s menu changes seasonally. The restaurant prides itself on serving the freshest seafood, local produce and a wide selection of steaks.
“Diners will experience the soul of American cooking with rustic flavors, approachable dishes and the intimacy of sharing familiar food together with family and friends,” said Fleming. “Central 214’s extensive menu celebrates the diverse flavors and substantial tradition of American regional cuisine.”

Appetizers include steamed black mussels, fried portobello mushrooms served with a cilantro mayonnaise and grilled pizzas featuring combinations like goat cheese and caramelized onions. The grilled romaine salad with olives, sweet-and-sour onions, feta cheese and oregano vinaigrette and warm duck and spinach salads are also tempting starters.

For entrees, options include several seafood dishes such as a pan-seared Atlantic salmon served with Maine lobster, toasted quinoa and micro greens and a honeyglazed Alaskan halibut served with a fresh vegetable ragout. Central 214 has an impressive rotisserie where chicken and duck are transformed into crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside culinary delights.

Grilled items include an herb-encrusted lamb loin served with feta cheese grits and a 16-ounce bone-in New York strip and 20-ounce cowboy rib steak. Sides range from healthy steamed asparagus and herb-grilled vegetables to a rich artichoke gratin and creamy whipped potatoes. Desserts include a refreshing lemon cannoli and a decadent bittersweet chocolate brûlée.

Central 214’s signature cocktail is the Southern Heat, a flavor-packed concoction of Milagro Blanco tequila, Cointreau, fresh lime juice, cucumber and jalapeno. Other tempting offerings include The Infinity Smash, a tropical drink featuring fresh pineapple, orange and rum, and The Perfect Summer, a refreshing blend of Grey Goose pear vodka, Kettle One Citroen, freshly squeezed lemon and grapefruit juices and fresh cucumber. While cocktails are Central 214’s forte, the wine menu contains many interesting choices and is fairly priced. Emphasis is placed on New World, California and American regional wines.

The restaurant is managed by the Kimpton boutique hotel chain, which transformed what used to be a run-down property into one of Dallas’ most coveted addresses. Kimpton hotels and restaurants are famous for their service and Central 214 does not disappoint. The wait staff is attentive and knowledgeable and enhance the dining experience. Only open since September 2006, Central 214 has already established itself as one of Dallas’ most sought after dinner reservations. With good food and drinks and an inviting atmosphere the restaurant is sure to keep climbing up Dallas’ culinary ladder.

email your comments to Claire: claire@otlgolf.com

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